Making PC Boards

I've always enjoyed making my own PC boards for custom projects but have struggled mightily with the process over the years . Either the board design wouldn't transfer or stick properly to the copper or if it did it would end up pitted after etching.  Well, I finally hit upon a formula that appears almost full-proof.  Some of this came about from trial and error on my part and some from other people's ideas.  The image below shows the results of my first board:

Not perfect by any means but pretty darn good for my needs.  I will list the steps that work for me in hopes that others might find them useful.








PC Board Production Steps
• layout board with ExpressPCB or similar software

• print design onto special toner transfer paper (print on shiny side) using laser
       printer (Staples, etc. will do this); note - I use paper from PulsarProFX but
       glossy magazine paper should work as well
• prep and clean copper board (scrub with Scotch-Brite pad, wash with soap and
       water then clean with alcohol)
• apply a few drops of an acetone:alcohol mixture (3:8) to board, then spread
       evenly with fingers (this mixture will cause the toner to release from the paper
       and stick to the copper); note - this mixture is the critical part of the whole
       process
• position paper design onto board and gently press into place
• apply a few more drops of mixture onto paper until thoroughly covered then wait
       5-10 seconds
• apply even hand pressure with a paper towel for ~90 seconds, then remove towel
       and wait ~30 seconds
• place board with paper into a cold-water bath for ~2 minutes then peel off paper
       backing
• wait ~15-20 minutes for toner to dry then turn on laminator set on low heat
       (3mm setting, I use a model GBC H220)
• once laminator is ready, cover board with green TRF film (front side taped to
       board and shiny side up); note - this material is also from PulsarProFX and
       helps to reduce pitting of the copper
• run board thru laminator once then allow to air cool for ~15-20 minutes
• gently remove green TRF film
• patch voids with fingernail polish if needed (must be done after using green TRF
       film)
• now ready for etching with hydrogen peroxide:muriatic acid mixture (2:1)